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Mineral v Chemical Sunscreen debate



The number one recommendation by dermatologists around the world is the daily use

of sunscreen, but what is sunscreen? and why do we need to wear it? Sunscreens are

active formulas that can either absorb or deflect the UVA and UVB radiation rays

omitted by the sun. If not sufficiently protected both rays can cause skin and cell

damage that can lead to complications such as premature ageing, hyperpigmentation

and some melanomas. 87% of skin cancer is caused by melanomas, your skin is the

largest organ of the body, so it makes sense to protect it. The minimum SPF ‘sun

protection factor’ recommended is 30 which gives you around 96.7% protection, whilst

50 gives you 98% protection.


Although a controversial topic for many reasons, it’s important to choose a sunscreen

that agrees with your skin and fits into your daily routine. So, let’s look at a few of the

concerns regarding the use of sunscreen.


  • Some say sunscreen blocks out the vital vitamin D we all need to keep our immune systems and bones strong. This simply is not the case as there are no sunscreens that can ‘block’ out the sun, hence the use of the word block is no longer used in describing your choice of sunscreen.

  • Some say the use of sunscreen is harmful to the environment, especially marine life. This is true of chemical formulas which are above SPF 30, the higher the SPF the more chemicals are used in formulation.

  • Some say people of colour do not need to use sunscreen as their natural melanin protects them from the sun. Whilst it is true people of colour have a ‘head start’ with sun protection, they are not immune to sun damage and with a natural SPF of around 7-10% (you cannot even buy a quality sunscreen in that factor) so bearing in mind, people of colour come in various ‘shades’ and hues, why would you not want to ‘protect your melanin’?


How does a mineral sunscreen work?

Mineral sunscreen should be labelled as ‘broad spectrum’ which simply means it helps

to protect your skin from both UVA and UVB radiation. They are typically formulated in

a SPF 30 format and contain synthetic zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide as active

ingredients. These mineral UV filters act as a physical barrier and deflect UV radiation.

In this way, mineral UV filters prevent UV rays from penetrating skin. Using smaller

particles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide leads to a relatively transparent final

product that is compatible with darker skin tones.


How does a chemical sunscreen work?

Chemical sunscreen also should be labelled ‘broad spectrum’ commonly includes a

combination of active ingredients such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate,

octocrylene, octisalate, among others. When chemical sunscreen is applied, these

chemical UV filters are absorbed, converted into heat and dissipates through the skin.

This reaction may produce free radicals as a byproduct, which are damaging to skin.

Therefore, many brands add antioxidants such as vitamins C and E to chemical

sunscreen formulas. These antioxidants effectively neutralize any free radicals that are

produced before they can damage the skin.


Which type of sunscreen should I use?

As mentioned in the start, it is a personal choice and if you are concerned seek the

advice of a professional. Remember whatever you put onto your skin is absorbed into

your blood stream and can cause havoc with hormones and other endocrine issues.

Although it hasn’t been mentioned there are also tinted sunscreens on the market that

are a safe and effective option for people with skin conditions that are triggered by

visible light exposure, such as melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, but

the down side is that the more you put into a formula the more chemicals involved and

of course you need to find the tint that suits your skin tone.


Be sun smart: 

  • Remember a SPF above 30 more than likely is a chemical formula

  • Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen

  • Use a sunscreen that is hypoallergenic

  • Stay out of direct sunlight between 10am – 2pm

  • Wear breathable clothing

  • Remember a sunhat and glasses

  • Do not forget your ears and neck when applying sunscreen

  • Apply sunscreen to the soles of the feet and palms of the hands

  • Drink plenty of water

  • Re-apply every 2 hours whilst out, swimming or excessively sweating

  • Try to apply at least 20 minutes before you leave home

  • Apply using the 2-finger rule

  • Sunscreen is for everyday and every season


PROTECT YOUR MELANIN

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